When Jamie and Steve Komorek opened Trattoria Marcella (3600 Watson Road, 314-352-7706) in 1995, they were insistent on being a different kind of Italian restaurant — a more traditional eatery as opposed to the St. Louis-style Italian spots on the Hill that the city’s diners had come to associate with the cuisine. To signal that intent, they left a certain dish off the menu that showed just how serious they were about standing apart from the crowd. “We didn’t do toasted ravioli,” Jamie says.