When Rob Connoley first opened Bulrush (3307 Washington Avenue, 314-449-1208) three years ago, he had no idea the direction it would take. Originally focused on foraged and hyper-local cuisine that celebrated the Ozark region’s bounty, the Grand Center eatery quickly took on a more important feel as he heard from people whose culinary traditions he was exploring. “When we first opened the restaurant, we didn’t realize the scope or importance of what we were doing; we just thought it would be a quirky little project where we could do some fun stuff that hadn’t been done before,” Connoley says.