As I reflect on the year in food, I can’t help but be overwhelmed by a mix of emotions. On the one hand, I’ve eaten some of the best dishes of my life in 2022, marveling at the restaurant owners and cooks who, in the face of incessant struggle, dedicate themselves to bringing us the particular joy that food and drink can offer. The restaurant industry is a difficult business on a good day; for the past three years, those difficulties have been magnified by forces that have exposed the industry’s systemic flaws and blown up the notion of “business as usual.”