Nestled along the southern shores of Lake Garda in northern Italy lies a small but increasingly significant wine region that produces some of the country’s most distinctive white wines.
Lugana, straddling the border between the Lombardy and Veneto regions, has quietly been producing exceptional white wines for centuries, yet remains relatively unknown to many wine enthusiasts outside of Europe.
I was fortunate to be invited to a tasting of Lugana wines recently in San Francisco, where I was able to reacquaint myself with them after my visit to the region in 2022. The area is extremely beautiful and is known as the Mediterranean in the Alps, due to the warmer-than-expected climate caused by the effect of Lake Garda. Even though this is a mountainous region, olives, citrus fruit and grapes can be grown here.
The history of Lugana wines stretches back to Roman times, with evidence of grape cultivation dating to the Bronze Age. Despite this long heritage, Lugana only gained official recognition in 1967, when it received Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) certification, the first wine region in Lombardy to earn this distinction.
Lugana’s exceptional wines owe much to the region’s unique terroir. The area features clay and limestone soils formed by glacial activity more than 10,000 years ago. These clay soils are rich in mineral salts and become gradually sandier in the hilly areas. The moderating influence of Lake Garda creates a microclimate that benefits the late-ripening turbiana grape.
Lugana wines come in five officially recognized styles, each offering different characteristics:
• Lugana: The most common style, dry and light-bodied, with notes of citrus, jasmine and minerality.
• Lugana superiore: Aged at least one year after harvest, these fuller-bodied wines often express peach, stone fruits, citrus, minerality and honey notes.
• Lugana riserva: The premium category requires at least two years of aging and six months in the bottle, resulting in the most complex and age-worthy expressions.
• Lugana vendemmia tardiva: Made from late-harvested grapes, creating a richer, sweeter profile.
• Lugana spumante: Sparkling versions produced using either the Charmat method or traditional bottle fermentation.
The star of Lugana wines is a grape variety called turbiana, though its identity has been the subject of considerable debate. For many years, it was known as Trebbiano di Lugana and thought to be related to the trebbiano (cognac) grape. At least 90% of the grapes making up Lugana wines must be the turbiana grape. Lugana wines are characterized by their versatility and balanced flavor profile; typical tasting notes include citrus, tropical fruit, green apple, white flowers and subtle almond, and are often accompanied by noticeable minerality and salinity. The wines pair exceptionally well with seafood, particularly lake fish, as well as white meats, risotto with vegetables, pasta and aged cheeses. Their balanced acidity and structure make them versatile accompaniments to many dishes.
If you have never heard of wines from Lugana, or the turbiana grape, below are some other wines that are similar to those produced in Lugana. If you like any of these wines, you will most likely enjoy a wine from Lugana:
• Albariño: From Spain’s Rías Baixas, albariño is highly aromatic with high acidity, orchard fruit flavors and a gentle salinity. It is often recommended for those who enjoy the freshness and minerality of Lugana.
• Sauvignon blanc: Particularly those from cooler climates (like Sancerre or Marlborough), sauvignon blancs share Lugana’s crisp acidity, citrus notes and refreshing style.
• Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet): These Loire Valley wines are bone-dry and fresh, and often have a saline, mineral finish, making them a good match for those who appreciate the palate-cleansing qualities of Lugana.
• Grüner veltliner: Austria’s flagship white grape produces wines with high acidity, citrus and green fruit notes, and a peppery, mineral edge, echoing the lively, food-friendly nature of Lugana.
• Chardonnay: Some age-worthy, oaked Lugana wines (especially riserva styles) can appeal to fans of California chardonnay, offering a balance of fruit, acidity and subtle vanilla or spice from oak aging, while maintaining a distinct Italian freshness and minerality.
While the distribution of the wines from Lugana is limited due to its small size and limited production, they are available in the Reno area. Be sure to ask your local wine shop if they have some. You will not be disappointed.
The late-ripening turbiana grape, widely grown in the mild climate of Italy’s Lugana region, makes for a versatile and balanced category of wines.
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