Emma Harvey loves what she calls “Costco Parm.” She keeps a one-pound plastic container of the pre-shredded Kirkland Signature aged Parmigiano-Reggiano on hand for topping fried eggs, Caesar salads and Marie Callender’s chicken pot pies. “That’s probably the worst thing that I do as a cheesemonger who has access to all these high-quality artisan cheeses,” Harvey said. “But I use that stuff on everything. It’s a utility cheese.” Harvey, 33, handles her fair share of fancy Parmigiano-Reggiano, too. In 2019, she cracked her first 80-pound wheel — a rite of passage in the mongering world. At the time, she was working the cheese counter at Burlington’s Dedalus Wine Shop, Market & Wine Bar under the watchful eye of John O’Brien, her first cheese mentor. “It was a very monumental moment for me,” Harvey said of cracking her first wheel. “My parents came to watch, and I didn’t cut myself. Everybody clapped!” Now Harvey cracks all kinds of wheels at Salt & Bubbles Wine Bar and Market in Essex, where she’s the cheese buyer and catering manager. She also stocks the market’s retail fridge, pickles produce, and creates elaborate cheese and charcuterie boards with swoops and swirls befitting her Instagram handle: @boardinvermont. Salt & Bubbles doesn’t have a traditional cheese counter — yet. It’s on Harvey’s Christmas list. But she still finds ways to get people excited about cheese, especially products from small local producers. Over slices of pizza and margaritas at the Monkey House in Winooski, Harvey shared her hot cheese takes, core cheese memories and thoughts on charcuterie boards — no candy allowed. SEVEN DAYS: What is your earliest cheese memory? EMMA HARVEY: I grew up in Burlington, and we always had a block of Cabot [Private Stock Classic Vermont] black wax cheddar in the fridge. That was from Costco, too. I would microwave nachos late at night, and I wouldn’t grate it because cleaning a grater would be too much work. So I would cut big slices using a knife that I could put in the dishwasher. My goal in life is to wash as few dishes as possible. SD: Do you sell a lot of cheddar at Salt & Bubbles? EH: We always have Shelburne Farms cheddar. In my opinion, it’s Vermont’s best cheese brand. We started with the three-year cheddar; currently we’re working through a wheel of the clothbound cheddar, which is made in…
Three Questions for Cheesemonger Emma Harvey
